Chastelfluh
Set in a beautiful area, just above the Chastelbach, the cliff has a number of buttresses with some excellent routes. In the afternoons Chastelfluh is a good hot weather crag, there is lots of shade. Note that the slabby routes in particular often get overgrown in the summer.
From Grellingen go up the hill towards Nunningen, and after about 2km park at a layby on the right. Just past this is a path leading downhill. Turn left when the single trail meets the forest track, and follow this to the river, keeping left when the track bends right. Cross the river by the footbridge, and then follow a faint path steeply up the hill to arrive at the Chastello buttress.
Sport and bolted routes
| Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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| A | SECTOR | ARENA. Arena is the large ampitheatre with a huge overhang protecting it. It has technical climbing up to the lower-offs below the roof |
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| A01 | Feuchter Traum | 5b | 20m | Starts at the left hand side of the ampitheatreto the same lower-off as Quenth |
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| A02 | Magic Dragon | 8b | 30m | Starts up Feuchter Traum then launches up and rightwards through the roof to finish at the lower-off of Cortége der Verlierer |
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| A03 | Quenth, the insane | 5b | 20m | Starts just right of Feuchter traum and finishes at the same lower off. |
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| A04 | Kreuzung der Wasserköpfe | 6b | 20m | Starts by the engraved cross and climbs to a mid height crux on small finger holds, then big holds to the lower off |
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| A05 | Cortége der Verlierer | 6c | 20m | Starts right of Kreuzung and climbs up ot the large flake, then the short wall to a technical move over the bulge |
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| A06 | Kilarth | 7a+ | 20m | Technical and fingery wall climbing up to the flake then easier to a blank wall that can be climbed by moving right and back left |
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| A07 | Rainpearl | 7a | 20m | A technical shallow groove |
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| A08 | Blackpearl | 7b | 20m | At the right hand side of the ampitheatre. Bouldery with long reaches. There is a project right hand start, and a hard right hand finish through the roof (30m) |
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| A09 | Milenth | 7c+ | 20m | Starts just right of the corner and levitates straight up |
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| A10 | Chrisu Beuteldrache | 7a+ | 20m | Just right to finish at the same lower off as Milenth |
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| A11 | Weiche Konstruktion aus gekochten Bohnen | 6a | 20m | The long corner |
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| A12 | Armades | 7c+ | 20m | Start up Weiche Konstruktion ... move right and up |
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| A13 | Fenrir | 8a | 25m | Good climbing |
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| A14 | Iraneth | 8a | 25m | Bouldery climbing to the same lower off as Fenrir |
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| A15 | Handtrix | 7b+ | 15m | A hard start, and still tricky to the cave |
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| A16 | Kanal an Krüchen | 7b | 10m | A hard bridging testpiece |
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| A17 | Banal an Drücken | 7a | 10m | Tricky, balancy climbing to the same lower off as Anal beglücken |
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| A18 | Anal beglücken | 6b+ | 10m | The corner. Previously given 6a+, hard and bold at that grade |
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| A20 | War pigs | 7b | 15m | Interesting fingery climbing. |
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| A20e | War pigs extension | 6b | 25m | The extension goes diagonally right from the 1st lower off |
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| A21 | Im Mastdarm herrscht ein wild Getöse | 7a+ | 15m | Hard start, nice finish |
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| A22 | Wandelnde Intrige | 15m | Project? |
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| B | SECTOR | CHASTELLO. The buttress where the approach path meets the crag |
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| B01 | Spiele | 6a | 20m | |
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| B02 | Kneten | 7b+ | 15m | |
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| B03 | Die Anti-Papst-Pille | 7b+ | 15m | |
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| B04 | Hilti sei Dank ! | 7b+ | 15m | Direct start to the roof |
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| B05 | Schlägerei ins Gesicht | 7a | 15m | Climbs through the roof |
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| C | SECTOR | PAPILLON. After arriving at the crag turn right, and Papillon is the first clean section of cliff about 100m to the right. The routes might still be dirty though! |
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| C01 | Entmobililsierter Held des Alltags | 6a+ | 15m | |
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| C02 | Schwitzender Experte der Sinnlosigkeit | 6c | 15m | |
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| C03 | Highway der verarmten Seelen | 6a+ | 15m | |
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| C04 | Ordnungsgefüge des Wissens | 6b | 15m | |
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| C07 | Dort änen | 6a+ | The crack! |
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| C09 | Me llama princessa tambièn puta | 7c | 25m | To the right of the big overhang the crag becomes more vertical. This route climbs direct just left of the arete |
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| C11 | Der Routenaufstoberer | 7a | 25m | A nice walll climb with a difficult first half. Start just left of the corner and trend up and L to the arete, finish up this |
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| C12 | Der Stein trügt | 6a | 25m | Start up the corner and then trend left up the wall. Nice |
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| C13 | Handlung kostet Zeit | 6a | 25m | The dirty corner |
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| C14 | Implantierter Willie | 7b+ | 25m | Climbs the dirty corner until it is possible to move right |
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| C15 | Noch eine Fluh, dann ist Ruh | 7a+ | 25m | Starts just right of the dirty corner then breaks out right. |
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| C18 | Metastase der Begierde | 6b | 15m | |
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| C19 | Werkstatt der Chronisten | 6c+ | 15m | |
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| C20 | Verfügbares Vernunftpotenzial | 6a | 15m | |
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| C21 | Stur mit Stil | 6b | 15m | |
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| C22 | Alles zermalmer | 6a+ | 15m | |
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| C23 | Nüchterner Blick in den Schadel | 6a+ | 15m | |
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| C24 | Gedächtnisambulanz | 6a | 10m | |
Crags in this region:
Photos (click for full view)
