Chastelfluh

Set in a beautiful area, just above the Chastelbach, the cliff has a number of buttresses with some excellent routes. In the afternoons Chastelfluh is a good hot weather crag, there is lots of shade. Note that the slabby routes in particular often get overgrown in the summer.

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
550m
Number of routes
100
Range of Routes
6a - 8b
Faces
East
Sun
In the morning
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
A SECTOR

ARENA. Arena is the large ampitheatre with a huge overhang protecting it. It has technical climbing up to the lower-offs below the roof

A01 Feuchter Traum 5b 20m

Starts at the left hand side of the ampitheatreto the same lower-off as Quenth

A02 Magic Dragon 8b 30m

Starts up Feuchter Traum then launches up and rightwards through the roof to finish at the lower-off of Cortége der Verlierer

A03 Quenth, the insane 5b 20m

Starts just right of Feuchter traum and finishes at the same lower off.

A04 Kreuzung der Wasserköpfe 6b 20m

Starts by the engraved cross and climbs to a mid height crux on small finger holds, then big holds to the lower off

A05 Cortége der Verlierer 6c 20m

Starts right of Kreuzung and climbs up ot the large flake, then the short wall to a technical move over the bulge

A06 Kilarth 7a+ 20m

Technical and fingery wall climbing up to the flake then easier to a blank wall that can be climbed by moving right and back left

A07 Rainpearl 7a 20m

A technical shallow groove

A08 Blackpearl 7b 20m

At the right hand side of the ampitheatre. Bouldery with long reaches. There is a project right hand start, and a hard right hand finish through the roof (30m)

A09 Milenth 7c+ 20m

Starts just right of the corner and levitates straight up

A11 Chrisu Beuteldrache 7a+ 20m

Just right to finish at the same lower off as Milenth

A12 Weiche Konstruktion aus gekochten Bohnen 6a 20m

The long corner

A12 Armades 7c+ 20m

Start up Weiches ... move right and up

A13 Fenrir 8a 25m

Good climbing

A14 Iraneth 8a 25m

Bouldery climbing to the same lower off as Fenrir

A15 Handtrix 7b+ 15m

A hard start, and still tricky to the cave

A16 Kanal an Krüchen 7b 10m

A hard bridging testpiece

A17 Anal beglücken 6a+ 10m

The corner

A18 Banal an Drücken 7a 10m

Balancy climbing to the same lower off as Anal beglücken

A20 War pigs extension 6b 25m

An extension with a project first pitch

A21 Im Mastdarm herrscht ein wild Getöse 7a+ 15m

Hard start, nice finish

A22 Wandelnde Intrige 15m

Project?

B SECTOR

CHASTELLO. The buttress where the approach path meets the crag

B01 Spiele 6a 20m
B02 Kneten 7b+ 15m
B03 Die Anti-Papst-Pille 7b+ 15m
B04 Hilti sei Dank ! 7b+ 15m

Direct start to the roof

B05 Schlägerei ins Gesicht 7a 15m

Climbs through the roof

C SECTOR

PAPILLON. After arriving at the crag turn right, and Papillon is the first clean section of cliff about 100m to the right. The routes might still be dirty though! 

C01 Entmobililsierter Held des Alltags 6a+ 15m
C02 Schwitzender Experte der Sinnlosigkeit 6c 15m
C03 Highway der verarmten Seelen 6a+ 15m
C04 Ordnungsgefüge des Wissens 6b 15m
C07 Dort änen 6a+

The crack!

C09 Me llama princessa tambièn puta 7c 25m

To the right of the big overhang the crag becomes more vertical. This route climbs direct just left of the arete

C11 Der Routenaufstoberer 7a 25m

A nice walll climb with a difficult first half. Start just left of the corner and trend up and L to the arete, finish up this

C12 Der Stein trügt 6a 25m

Start up the corner and then trend left up the wall. Nice

C13 Handlung kostet Zeit 6a 25m

The dirty corner

C14 Implantierter Willie 7b+ 25m

Climbs the dirty corner until it is possible to move right

C15 Noch eine Fluh, dann ist Ruh 7a+ 25m

Starts just right of the dirty corner then breaks out right. 

C18 Metastase der Begierde 6b 15m
C19 Werkstatt der Chronisten 6c+ 15m
C20 Verfügbares Vernunftpotenzial 6a 15m
C21 Stur mit Stil 6b 15m
C22 Alles zermalmer 6a+ 15m
C23 Nüchterner Blick in den Schadel 6a+ 15m
C24 Gedächtnisambulanz 6a 10m