Grotte des Nains

Situated deep in the forest, this small gorge with its quaint little cave has a handful of steep and difficult climbs up to 30m in length. It provides welcome shade on hot summer days, although is slow to dry after prolonged rain. The crag is not perfectly solid, so take care not to kill any tourists wandering through the gorge.

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
350m
Number of routes
20
Faces
North East
Sun
The crag is mostly in the shade
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 H pour Homme 7a+ *
02 Preparation H 7a 12m **

steep at first, then technical fingery climbing to the top

03 Allegresse 7a+ 13m
04 Les visiteurs 5b 22m
05 Sanduhr 6b 19m **

a little scrappy at the start, and an intimidating move to finish.

06 Sylphide 7a 25m

tricky moves around the bulge lead to some easier climbing before the technical upper wall

07 La gorge aux loups 7a+ 13m
08 Chippendale 7a 12m
09 Stonehenge 7a+ 27m
10 Bon baisers de Porrentruy 6b 25m **
11 Tip 6c+ 18m
12 Hard 8a 18m
13 Bio 6c+ 18m
14 Simple 6b+ 18m **

Climb the steep slabby wall moving left after the third bolt to finish at the lower off two thirds of the way up the wall.

15 Top 7b 8m **

From the rest just below the lower off of Simple move left and work your way with difficulty to finish up the crack.

16 Man 7c 6m
17 Power 7c+ 7m
18 Allocation degressives 6c+ 20m

On a buttress a little to the right of the main gorge