Gempen Gempenpfeiler

A nice selection of climbs in this middle section of Gempen, mostly on steep walls with a few aretes and slabs thrown in. Not as open as Sanduehrliwand, so not as warm on sunny winter days, but some welcome shade in the summer

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
739m
Number of routes
40
Faces
South
Climbing Area
Gempen
Directions

From the parking walk up the road for 150m to the second set of steps leading down into the wood. Follow the path past Gempen Ost to Gempenpfeiler. 5 to 10 minutes from the parking.

Climbing topo, Gempen, Switzherland

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Cannabis 6c 15m **

The left hand side of the isolated buttress below Sandührliwand
02 Rock games 6a 16m
03 Regenriss 5c 17m
04 Sen 6c 17m
05 Felsenwurm 4c 13m
06 In memory of Andi 6b+ 20m **

The arete on the left hand side of the very nice "memorial" wall
07 Sapara 7a 25m ***

The steep wall with a few sustained fingery moves towards the top
08 Ostermonster 6b 25m ***

Climb steeply up the right hand side of the wall
09 Flowerpower 7a 11m
10 Zwärgentod 6a+ 11m
11 Fahnenriss 4b 11m
12 A Rhesus positiv 6a

The right hand side of the upper wall
13 No name 7a 35m
14 Fahrt durch erogene Zone 6c
15 Riss 5c

The long crack. Trad gear needed
16 Kurz 6a

A short pitch to the roof
17 Hormonstörung 6c
18 Gempenpfeiler 6c 35m ***

An excellent two pitch route with some technical climbing up the imposing arete. 1) 6a up the corner and round the bulge to belay below the arete. 2) 6c. Climb the arete, tricky to work out what you are supposed to do at the top
19 Bammelweg 6c+

An interesting route since it doesn't have a first pitch, and it is difficult to reach the lower off from the top of the crag
20 Speed 7a+
21 Malamut 6b+ 12m
22 Dead cat dance 6a 16m
23 Fam. Vögtli; Do. und Fr. geschl. 6b 22m
24 Caya 7a+ 22m
25 Bizarr 7b

A thin middle section
25a Python 7a+ 23m

A nice route squeezed between Bizarr and Geier
26 Geier 6b 22m
27 Völlig losgelöst 6a+ 23m
28 Hure Biene Maya 6a 22m
29 Gemeinsam einsam 7b 19m
30 Kommerz 7b 13m
31 TGV 7b 19m
32 Hulk in Kalk 6c+ 17m
33 Linker Riss 5b 17m
34 Communication breakdown 7b+ 15m
35 Simply talk 6a+ 12m
36 Rechter Riss 4c 14m
37 Hilti kilti di! 6a 12m
38 Invasion der Gurkenmenschen 6b 13m
39 Taten und leiden 7a 24m
40 Steppenwolf 6b+ 21m
41 Steppenbrand 6a+ 21m
42 Steppenriss 4c 34m

Some wires/friends useful
43 Steppenpfeiler 4c 38m

trad / aid route

Crags in this region: