Gempen Sandührliwand

A very sunny crag that dries quickly and can sometimes be too hot even in the coldest months! Excellent wall climbing often on pockets, well bolted.

Region
Switzerland - Basler Jura
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
750m
Number of routes
100
Faces
South
Climbing Area
Gempen
Directions

Follow the road from Dornach to the village of Gempen. turn left in the centre and continue uphill for a few hundred yards to a second left turn that will take you to Gempen Türm. Park at a bend in the road 200m before the signs saying "Restaurant visitors parking only". From here it is a few minutes walk down to the right hand sector, or carry on up the hill past the Türm and follow the cliff edge down hill until a gully on the left with steps in it leads you past Ziegenrücken to Sandührliwand. 5 to 10 minutes from the car.

Gempen climbing, klettern topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Duck and Cover Direkt 7b 23m
02 Duck and Cover 7a+ 23m
02a El culo abierto 6a

just left of the corner. details not checked
03 unknown 7b

grade not checked
04 Vox Media 6a+ 19m
05 Fidimangenggis 6c 19m
06 Sensationelle 6a 21m
07 Sensationelle Verschneidung 4b 20m ***

The classic long crack
08 Edi the Eagle 6a 21m ***

the arete moving right out of the crack. Excellent
09 La linea 6b *

the corner. Harder than it looks
10 Sensitive 6a+

the left hand side of the wall
11 Négligé 6b+ 17m ***

climb the little overlap and up the wall.Excellent
12 Sandührliweg 6a+
13 Sandührliweg Einstiegsvariante 5c+ ***

Follow the left hand side of the arete on good pockets.
14 Cote d'or 6a

wall left of the corner, it is also possible to finish up the arete at about the same grade.
15 Pas mal 6b+

LHS of the wall
16 Raja 6c **

Tricky moves to enter and leave the hanging corner
17 Raja con dios 6c

As for Raja, but move right round the overlap
18 Missing Link 6a
19 Bärgweg 5b

the corner
20 Zugzwang 6b+ 17m

The wall just right of the corner. It is also possible to traverse out of this at half height to the arete "Zwingender Zug zum Zugzwang" 7a+
21 Direkter Zugzwang 6b+ 15m

The arete
22 Geh doch nach Moskau 6a 15m **

The LH side of of the upper wall
23 Teamwork 6b **

More pocketed wall climbing. Finish to the right of "Geh doch"
24 Chicago 6b+ 15m **

sustained climbing
25 Egopone 6c+ 15m **

Just to the right of Chicago. Very close but nice moves
26 Al Capone 6c 15m **

Climb just left of the corner with a tricky sequence to reach the small roof.
27 Al Caselzer 5c 15m ***

The obvious corner. Nice climbing
28 Oedipussi 6a+ 9m **

The first route to the right of the corner
29 Januarloch 7b 16m *

A few hard moves at the start
30 Lochgarten 7a

No details, Looks to be about 7b

Crags in this region: