Kalymnos Beach

Solid climbing on rough rock with good holds in a beautiful location. Shade after midday

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
0m
Number of routes
25
Range of Routes
5a - 7c
Faces
North East
Sun
Gets the sun until about 12.30
Climbing Area
Kalymnos
Directions

Follow the steep road from Skalia to Palionisos, go over the pass and park half way down the hill at the last prominent bend. A path leads to both Secret Garden, and The Beach. For Secret Garden, bear right about 100m down the track. For The Beach bear left, and follow the track to the beach. Turn left and follow the coast for a hundred yards to a second beach, the crag is at the far end of this. 15 to 20 minutes from the road

Climbing topo Kalymnos The Beach

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
04z SECTOR MAIN CLIFF
05 Goat Memorial 5b 25m **

The left hand side of the preliminary wall between the beach and the main crag
06 Sea Urchin 6a 20m *
07 Family Business 5b 25m **

The left hand side of the main crag
08 Suite 5c **

Nice slab, with a strangely highly placed lower off that is hard to clip
09 Pierro + Angelo 6a 30m **

Nice fingery slab, low in the grade
10 Ciuccia Bay 6b 30m **

Steep slab / wall climbing
11 One Year 6c+ 30m ***

easy up to the bulge, and then an interesting and tiring series of moves to the lower off
12 Rocco Famiily 6c+ 25m *
13 Apollo's miracle 7b+ 25m ***

A hard boulder problem start leads to the excellent top wall
14 Elizabeth 7b 25m ***

An excellent steep climb with good holds all the way
15 Four Years 7c+ 20m ***
16 Material Man 7a+ 18m **

over a bulge and up the slab to the tufa and powerful move to reach good holds and the lower off
17 Where are my bolts? 6b+ 20m **

The left hand side of the red wall
18 Levante 6b 20m **

The rmiddle of the red wall
19 Bronchitos 6a 20m *

The right hand side of the red wall
20 Sweet Remy 5a 15m *

the short slab just right
21 Blue Lagoon 5b 25m **

Just right again, the last route before the walk to the far right sector
29 SECTOR FAR RIGHT

50m right of the main cliff, in a gully next to the sea
30 Tomboy 6c 25m ***

About 50m to the right of the main crag is an excellent wall sheltered from the sea by a huge boulder. Tomboy climbs the left hand side of the wall on pockets and flat holds
31 Karpouzi 5c+ 20m ***

The obvious flake
32 Octopus Crack 7b+ 35m Gold

The very impressive overhanging crack is sustained and exhausting
33 Flying Fish 7a+ 20m ***

The steep wall right of Octopus crack has some big holds and strenuous moves.

Crags in this region: