Kalymnos Gerakios Right

Gerakios has two distinct sectors. The left hand side containing the more difficult routes on Rainbow Wall and the Upper Cave, and the right hand side including Main Wall and Trois Ilots. The right hand side, described here, has many excellent mid grade routes on walls and slabs with rough rock and good incut holds. It gets the sun after about 12.30. Mot of the route names are written at the foot of the climbs.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
300m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
5c to 6c
Faces
South
Climbing Area
Kalymnos
Directions

Take the upper one way road around Masouri, and park after the top of the hill, before a large right hand bend, between two yellow houses. Follow the concrete drive for 100m where it turns into a good path, and follow this to the foot of the Main wall. The three Trois Ilots sectors are reached by traversing further right. 15 to 25 minutes from the parking,

Climbing topo Kalymnos Gerakios Ilots
Climbing topo Kalymnos Gerakios Ilots

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR MAIN CLIFF

The orange coloured wall that is the first cliff you reach on the approach walk
15 Flag 6b 22m **

Up a slab and then cross a blank section with difficulty to a small corner. Originally graded 6a, but not possible at this grade
16 Grueffelo 6b+ 25m *
17 Hannah 6a+ 25m **
18 Port 5c 25m *

Right of the gate, rough and very photogenic
20 SECTOR ILOTS LEFT

Just to the right of the Main sector, over the fence
21 Délice Choc 5c+ 35m ***

The groove
22 Pépite Haut 6a 35m ***

Green bolts
23 Sandy Kilo 6a 35m ***
24 Allez Gros 6a+ 25m **
25 UP Wall 6a+ 36m **
26 Rowan 6a+ 35m **
27 Express Haut 6a+ 30m ***
28 Léa Rico 6a 30m ***
29 G.D. Gaz 6a 30m ***
30 Pétain Coup 6b 32m ***
40 SECTOR ILOTS MIDDLE

The third of the sectors after Main and Ilots Left, reached by traversing under these two cliffs
41 3ème age 5b 30m ***

The left hand slab
42 Ginette 5b 30m ***
43 Chirlpipi 5c+ 30m ***
44 Epidixias 5c 30m ***
45 Pornogeros 6b 35m ***
46 1995 6b 30m ***

Follow the big groove and exit right onto the headwall
47 1995 extension 6c 40m ***
48 Cuni Lingugus 6b+ 30m ***
49 Cumulo Sinus 6b 30m ***

Excellent holds the whole way
50 Prosciutto + Champagne 6a 30m ***

The technical groove
51 O Claire de l'Anus 6a+ 32m **
52 Les pros se tätent 6a+ 35m ***

gets easier as you get higher
53 Les copains d'abord 6a+ 200m ***

A multipitch route: 1) 6a 33m; 2) 6a+ 35m; Traverse down and right to reach pitch 3) 6a+ 38m; 4) 5c 35m; 5) 6a 25m. Either abseil down the route "Modeste" (80m rope required) or walk right and round to Ourania
54 Minion 5c+ 30m ***
55 Jolie Emilie 5c 25m **
56 Modeste 6b+ 190m ***

Multipitch : 1) 5b 35m; 2) 6a 25m; 3) 6b+ 25m; 6b 25m then walk left for 20m to 5) 5c 20m; 6) 6a 40m. Descent by abseil down pitches 6, 5, walk, then left of the first 3 pitches. 80m rope required.
60 SECTOR TROIS ILOTS RIGHT

TROIS ILOTS RIGHT. A few minutes to the right of the Middle Sector, and after the multi pitches
61 Eh ma tomme 6a+ 30m

The difficulties are at the start and the end
62 L.H.O. 6b+ 35m

A tricky first crack and balancy moves higer up
63 Police Twalda 6b+ 25m
64 Crystal Line 6a 35m

A  classic, marvel at the crystals. Low in the grade except for the first traverse
65 Tétonne pas 6b 25m

Low in the grade
66 Gabou 6b 25m
67 Lafete alm 6a+ 30m
68 Queen Coinne 6b 30m
69 LAOTCO 6b 40m
70 Oxéo 5b 25m

The ridge left of the gully
71 la raie publique 6a 30m

Starts high up the corner / chimney /gully. Reached by climbing Oxeo and then descending to the ledge
72 Bises to Kate 6a+ 40m
73 Ari Cover 6a+ 40m
74 Gast 6b 40m
75 Il posto 6a+ 35m
76 Oh! Dieu 6a+ 25m
76e Oh! Dieu extension 6b 45m
78 Kwad 9 6a 35m
79 Docteur 5c+ 35m
80 Oh! wi Oh! 5c 30m
81 Balga 5c+ 30m
82 P'tit waso 5c 30m
83 Chiara 5b 25m
84 Boubie 5c 30m
85 P'tit pwason 5c+ 30m

Crags in this region: