Kalymnos Galatiani

A quiet cliff with three distinct sectors. Reservoir Dogs is the nearest to the road and has a handful of long wall climbs on rough rock. The Calcite Cave is a mini Grande Grotte with a number of excellent steep tufa climbs, and a few easier routes to either side. Black Forest is a small crag with a few pleasant, albeit sharp, climbs. The sun reaches the Calcite Cave between 12 and 1pm, the other two crags a bit earlier, around 10.30am. In the warmer months it is worth the effort of an early start. 

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
300m
Number of routes
40
Range of Routes
6a - 8b
Faces
South
Sun
Reservoir dogs gets the sun after about 10am, Calcite cave after 12.30
Climbing Area
Kalymnos
Directions

Drive north from Masouri to Arginota and in another 1.7km park just before a right hand bend at a small bridge with a concrete plinth that used to contain the name of the sector. The track starts here, and is marked with red dots and cairns, and goes steeply up and left initially. Reservoir dogs is reached in 20 minutes, Calcite Cave in about 30  minutes. For Black Forest, park at the same place but follow a set of red dots that lead up to the right. The crag is reached in about 15 minutes.

Kalymnos Galatiani climbing topos
Kalymnos Galatiani climbing topos

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
00 SECTOR RESERVOIR DOGS
01 Mr White 5c 20m **
02 Mr Brown 6a 20m **
03 Mister Black 6b 30m **
04 Joe 6c+ 30m
05 Mr Blond 6b+ 30m **
06 Mr Pink 6b 25m **
06a Mr Pink extension 6c+ 35m **

Not a lot harder than Mr Pink
07 Mr Red 6c 30m
08 Reservoir Dogs 5c 20m

Climbs up to the roof
08a Reservoir Dogs extension 7a 35m
09 Mr Blue 7a 35m

The right hand line through the roof
10 SECTOR CRYSTAL CAVE
11 Bella 4c 25m

On the grey slabs 50m left of the calcite cave
12 Veros 4a 20m

The 2nd "grey slab" route
13 Sunrider 6b+ 30m

At the left hand side of the orange wall left of the Calcite cave
14 Crispy 6c+ 35m
15 Lustzapfen 7a 30m
16 Wendenexpress 7a 135m ***

1) 6c+; 35m 2) 7a 30m; 3) 6a 20m; 4) 6c 30m; 5) 6a 20m. 6b+ obligatory, spaced bolting, 2x50m recommended.
17 Grip 7b 35m ***

Climbs from the R to the first lower off of Wendenexpress. Excellent
18 Focus 7c 35m
19 K44 7a 22m ***

A steep sustained tufa climb with long moves in the middle

20 Nymfi 7b 30m

A hard move in the middle
21 Feuerdorn 7a+ 20m
21e Sueur d'hommes 8a 40m

The extension to Feuerdorn. Beta info here
23 Debout les Morts 7c+ 40m
24 Zero Chichon 7c+ 40m
24e Zero Chichon extension 8a 50m
26 Geogoune 7c 40m
27 Calcite Star 7b 25m

Starts as for Geogoune then moves right up the tufa
27e Calcite Star plus 7b+ 40m

The extension to Calcite Star
29 Kroterih 7b 30m
30 La Perceuse a Dede 7a 30m

Start as for Kroterih and move right
31 Rognol 7a 30m
32 Latex 7a+ 35m
33 Vagina 6c 30m
34 Anal+ 6b+ 25m *

Wall, tree and chimney
35 B2 6a+ 25m *

Slippy slab with a steep finish
36 Stanouch 5b 20m

The easy pillar
37 Metaxa 8b 40m

The right lip of the upper cave
38 Sounet 5a 20m

The slab right of Stanouch

Crags in this region: