Kalymnos Kastri
Kastri is an archeological site, which is interesting to visit in its own right. The climbing is in 3 sectors. The left hand sector, Kreissaal, is mostly slabs. The middle and main section has an ancient fortress dating back to the 4th century BC. It contains many excellent routes, both slabs and steep walls. The right hand section, Sophie, is less interesting, but nevertheless has a dozen or so routes, of varying quality. The sun reaches most of the sectors between 11.00 and 12.00, although one or two of the steep walls stay in the shade a little longer.
Sport and bolted routes
Topo Ref | Route | Sport Grade | Length | Quality | Description | Tick |
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A00 | SECTOR | KASTRI LEFT KREISAAL. An area of slabs a few minutes to the left of the main crag |
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B00 | SECTOR | KASTRI MAIN |
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B01 | Kazonis | 6a+ | 15m | *** | An isolated route that starts below and to the left of the ancient wall and follows a hand crack |
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B02 | Cook | 5c | 30m | * | ||
B03 | Cook extension | 5c+ | 45m | ** | ||
B04 | Red Rooster | 6a | 25m | * | ||
B05 | Fata | 6a | 25m | ** | A prickly slab with good holds, leads to a final wall also with good holds. |
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B06 | Bibou | 6a+ | 25m | *** | Just to the right of, and similar to Fata, but a tiny bit harder. |
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B07 | Enchanted castle | 6b | 25m | *** | Climb up to the centre of the cave to the right of Bibou, bridge out and up, and then continue steeply to the belay. Excellent and unusual climbing. |
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B08 | Principessa Giulia | 6c+ | 25m | Gold | Hard pocket pulling to begin with, then yet more pocket pulling. Superb. |
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B09 | Majestic | 7a+ | 40m | Gold | Start at the lowest point of the buttress and climb directly and strenuously to the top of the crag. Steep, never too hard, but well worth the grade. |
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B10 | Tower staircase | 5a | 15m | * | The ramp to the right of Majestic |
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B11 | Dragon's Lair | 6c | 22m | * | To the right of Tower staircase with a steep finish |
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B12 | Dark corner | 6b | 25m | 0 | The arete. Badly bolted |
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B13 | Wasp | 5b | 20m | Up the cracks |
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B14 | Game over | 6b+ | 40m | ** | ||
B15 | X-over | 6a+ | 40m | *** | ||
B16 | Haramiss | 6a+ | 30m | ** | ||
B17 | Haramiss extension | 6c+ | 55m | *** | ||
B18 | Side cut | 6a+ | 35m | *** | ||
B19 | Side cut extension | 6c | 45m | *** | ||
B20 | Gotti | 7a | 30m | *** | Scramble up to the base of a grey slab with an overhanging slab above. Excellent moves. |
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B21 | Borni | 7b+ | 25m | ** | A steep overhanging wall |