Kalymnos North Cape

Pleasant climbing, mainly on slabs and steep walls with a couple of caves to test the ambitious climber. Bolting is good and the holds often sharp. Gets the sun between 10.30am on the LHS, and 13.00 on the right hand side cave.

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
100m
Number of routes
60
Range of Routes
5b - 8b
Faces
South
Climbing Area
Kalymnos
Directions

Drive north from Masouri for 2.5 kilometres to the large right hand corner above Kasteli. Just past this is a track on the right, go up this for 100m to park by the large orange house. walk up the hillside for 5 to 15 minutes depending on the sector.

Kalymnos North Cape climbing topo

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Mixed 5c 25m

The left hand route on the ledges above and left of the Inshallah cave
02 Windy 5b 20m
03 Corner 5b 20m
04 No Fly Zone 5b 35m

The rib
05 B.E.B 6a 30m
06 Galup 6b 30m ***

Steep and sustained. An excellent route
07 Inshallah 8c+ 15m Gold

Hard boulder moves across the lip of the cave
08 Marshmallow 8a 12m

Another steep bouldery route
09 Sposi 6c 15m ***

Just right of the cave, climb steeply on big holds
10 To Proto Moro Mou 5c+ 25m **

Start up a short corner and continue pleasantly up the wall
11 Seal 5c 25m

Pleasant, continuous climbing
12 Hantsch 7a+ 20m
13 Reize 7a 25m
14 Seferis 6c 40m

Tricky at the overhang. 80m rope needed
15 Megastore 6b+ 40m

80m rope needed
16 Rosso di Serra 6b 30m
17 Prego 6b+ 30m ***

Excellent wall climb
18 Grazie 6a+ 30m
19 Scanner 6a 30m **

Pleasant climbing with one thought provoking move to reach the upper break.
20 Leone 6a+ 30m

Lovely fngery climbing in the upper part
21 Iglu 6b 30m
22 Et la cloche sonne 3x 7b 25m

Crux at the roof
23 Le mur d'epicure 7c 25m
24 Ahimsa 7b+ 25m ***

The twin tufas
25 Orca 7b 20m
26 Polar Bear 7a 30m **

Technical and steep climbing past the first four bolts leads to pleasant wall climbing on iron rugosities
27 Partiro 7a+ 25m
28 French connection 6a+ 30m
29 Ice Age 5c+ 30m **
30 Hawk 6a+ 30m ***

Delicate and fingery climbing up the steep wall
31 Elk 6b 25m **
32 Polar Star 6b 30m **

Climbs up and through the small cave Sustained, balancy climbing on small holds
33 Nordic Walkinig 6a 20m **
34 North Light 6a 25m **

The last route on this slab of rock
35 Funatiker 7a+ 25m ***

The gently overhanging wall left of the Helios cave
37 Helios 8a 15m ***

The steep left hand tufa
38 Nirvana 7c 15m ***

The right hand tufa, Sustained
39 Stachelschwein 6c+ 15m *

Short and bouldery
40 Ren 5b 20m **

Hard to start and hard to finish
41 Karibu 6a 20m *

Just right of Ren
42 Beluga 5b 20m *
43 Whale 6a 20m *
44 Krill 6b 20m *

Crags in this region: