Kalymnos Grande Grotta

Big roofs ! The showpiece of Kalymnos is understandably very popular, and queueing for routes is not uncommon. Lots of stamina and technique required  giving inspiring, exposed and often 3D climbing. Gets the sun early afternoon in the Spring and Autumn, later in the summer

Region
Greece - Kalymnos
Rock Type
Limestone
Altitude
200m
Number of routes
50
Range of Routes
7a-8b
Faces
South
Climbing Area

Sport and bolted routes

Topo Ref Route Sport Grade Length Quality Description Tick
01 Massalia 6b 100m ***

Four good pitches that traverse above the Grande Grotta. Descent is by abseil, either by walking from the last pitch a few metres to an abseil point that will take you right over the lip of the Grande Grotta (two 80m ropes required, tie a knot). Or walk 150m further to above Panorama for two 35m abseils. A 70m rope just reaches, again, tie a knot!! 1) 6b. Climb the technical slab. 25m 2) 5c 25m. 3) 5c 25m. 4) 5c 25m.

02 Zenith 8b+ 40m ***

A briliant long hard line up the left hand side of the cave

03 Aegialis 7c ***

Not so hard technically, but very sustained. The most photographed climb in the world.

04 Kopalization 8a+ 55m ***

Extension to Aegialis

05 Kopalization Extra 8b+ 65m ***

extension to the extension

06 Zawinal syndrome 7c+ 30m ***

Long, steep and impressive. Be careful of rope drag

07 Aphrodite 7a+ 12m **

A short technical pitch between Aegialis and DNA.

08 DNA 7a 20m ***

An excellent introduction to the steep routes in the cave. Climb the tufas on big holds, finding as many recovery spots as possible, before a difficult clip of the last bolt before the belay. Classic.

09 DNA extension 8a+ 50m ***
10 Ivi ole 7b+ 20m ***

A direct on "Ivi" with an interesting dyno

11 Ivi 7a+ 20m ***

Another pumpy jug fest

12 Priapoas 7c 37m ***

Incredible and very impressive. A long three dimensonal adventure through the huge stalactites. Likened to going for a 15 minute run. Pumpy and hard. A 70m rope JUST reaches, tie a knot because if it doesnt you need to panic.

13 Super Priapos 8a 55m ***

extension to Priapos

14 Fun de Chichunne 8a 40m ***
15 Happy girlfriend 5c+ 15m ***

A small slab and tufa that gives a beautful view of Telendos from the back of the cave

17 Elefanthimmel 7a ***

A first 5a pitch leads pleasantly up the slab, then climb the huge roof with equally huge features, and some final hard moves

18 Punto Caramelo 8a 30m ***

Steep!

19 Tufantastic 7b+ 40m ***

Ignore the awful pun in the name, and climb for ever through the stalactites. Careful with the length of your rope

20 Trela 7a 40m ***

A looong pitch through the stalactites. A 70m rope just reaches the ground. Tie a knot